The gift of Athena: artisan olive oil

"Ackk, that's got quite a bite" squeaked the red faced taster between tear filled coughing fits. Fortunately, there was no need for the Heimlich Maneuver, it was just her first experience with fresh, top quality, estate produced extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) from Italy. And if all you've had is the mass produced (and frequently adulterated) olive oil sold in grocery chains you may not be prepared for the blast of peppery polyphenols and fresh acidity on the finish of a fresh, premium, estate produced olio.

Polyphenols are a generic catch-all term for a group of anti-oxidant micro-nutrients that have been linked to an array of impressive health benefits, and they are found in abundance in fresh extra virgin olive oil. They are also found in wine, that other pillar of the Mediterranean diet that has lately received so much positive attention from the wellness community. And as it turns out, there are parallels between wine and olive oil when it comes to determining authenticity and provenance of both of these powerful health foods.

But there's more to just the health benefits for consumers and cooks who have come to a new appreciation of this ancient staple. Fresh, high quality olive oil is unsurpassed in the kitchen where it replaces the heavy richness of animal fats with a vibrancy and liveliness not found in other cooking mediums. And as a fresh condiment it enlivens and enhances the flavors of everything from greens to roasted meats and soups.

The olive is actually a fruit, one of the drupe family in the same category of other flesh- covered, pit clinging fruits such as apricots, peaches and plums. It is also known as the "gift of Athena" to the ancient Greeks and a mainstay of the Mediterranean diet, held in high esteem by contemporary medical researchers and wellness experts the world over. And it's rich, unctuous oil is the only comestible oil that is derived mechanically from a fruit instead of a seed, the oils of which require the use of heat and solvents (usually hexane) for extraction. (Yeah, think about that one for just a minute.)

As the story goes Athena and Poseidon sought the favor of the first residents of what would become the city of Athens. Poseidon - macho show-off that he was - struck a rocky outcrop with his massive trident, unleashing an impressive torrent of water; this newborn spring his gift to the city. Unfortunately, it turned out to be salt water and useless to the community. Athena on the other hand, quietly parted the soil with her spear and gently planted an olive branch, the fruit of which provided food, heat and light, displaying her far superior wisdom and easily winning this early example of divine pork barrel politics. Today Athens bears her name and the olive is ensconced in history as a pillar of western culture.

Today as in antiquity, Mediterranean economies can rise and fall on the production and sale of olive oil and vast fortunes can be made and lost by speculators, middlemen and importers. Of course with stakes like these, fraud, graft and outright thievery can't be too far behind. And as recent news reports have pointed out, much that is labeled as EVOO is an out and out fake.

So what's the consumer to do if they want to take advantage of the remarkable health benefits and culinary delights of this "Gift of Athena" without getting ripped off?

Tom Mueller's book "Extra Virginity" published in 2012 is a critical place to start. An American writer living in Liguria with his Milanese wife and two sons, Mueller explores the history, economy and agronomy of the olive and gives a clear appraisal of the problems and challenges facing traditional, family producers struggling with a world economy that opens borders, weakens regulations and rewards industrial scale producers at the expense of the small artisan. Mueller also maintains an excellent website at truthinoliveoil.com for anyone who wants to further their knowledge of EVOO or vet their latest purchase from the supermarket. But beware, you might be disappointed to find out that the olive oil in your cabinet could contain everything from Swedish turnip oil enhanced by chlorophyll to rancid seed oils from Tunisia that have been industrially refined and "purified".

Closer to home, importer of artisan produced Italian food specialties Ilyse Rathet advises customers to "read the labels and seek out only estate produced oils from reliable, trustworthy importers". Co-founder with her husband of Ritrovo Imports based in Seattle, Rathet goes on to say that customers also have to expect to pay for the real thing. "Production costs for authentic, fresh EVOO are high. There's no way around it. If you're paying $6.00 or $8.00 for a liter bottle of what is purported to be extra virgin olive soil from a large supermarket chain or grocer, its probably not the real deal."

(This reality is echoed in Extra Virginity when Mueller estimates that it runs anywhere from 6 to 8 euros per liter just in production costs for one small olio producer in Campania that he profiles. )

"it's also a matter of educating the consumer" Rathet goes on to say. "Just as it was with Italian wine 30 years ago, people need to be exposed to quality and introduced to trustworthy producers so they can make the determination for themselves. "

And just as with wine 30 years ago, a fledgling regulatory system rolled out by the Italian government in 2012 is intended to insure that you get what you pay for. The new D.O.P. certification loosely translated stands for Designation of Origin, under which oils from particular regions made from specific varietals are legally authenticated. This mirrors the D.O.C. system introduced in the 1980s for wine, which while not perfect, has gone a long way towards reducing consumer confusion and producer shenanigans. But this new regulatory structure only covers part of Italy and none of the rest of the oil producing world.

However, just as with wine in the early days, there is a new appreciation and enthusiasm for authentic artisan products that speak of their origins and show fidelity to their culture. And, there are plenty of New World producers who are entering the fray and pushing quality in the Old World. In fact, California and Australia are now producing some of the best EVOO in the market and even Oregon has a toe in the water.

But just as with wine, consumers need to steer clear of large scale, industrialized production oils and concentrate on small, easy to verify producers found through the diligence and efforts of knowledgable importers and trusted wine merchants who know their oil. After all, artisan olive oil and artisan wines go hand in hand and are a great complement at the table. And many wine importers also bring in the oils from trusted artisan wine producers.

And there's no substitute for tasting for yourself. There are many food specialty shops and wine merchants who offer educational tasting experiences. Avail yourself of these opportunities to experience for yourself the marvels and benefits of the "Gift of Athena". You're sure to become wise and beautiful - and a lot more healthy while experiencing one of the great culinary delights of western civilization.

Some things to keep in mind:

1. Be very cautious with mass produced and mass marketed brands found in grocery stores and other large chains. With a little research you'll discover that some of the biggest brands in the business have recently been in court to defend themselves against accusations of fraud and deceptive labeling. Just as it it is with wine, industrial scaled production and a long and complicated supply chain are not conducive to authenticity. But that's not to say the genuine article can't be found at this level, just make sure you do your homework on Mueller's website (truthinoliveoil.com) before you buy.

2. Surprisingly, just because the label says Product of Italy it doesn't mean that's where the oil originated. Anything trans-shipped and packaged in Italy can carry this misleading citation. And don't let the color influence you. Bright green oils can be enhanced by the addition of chlorophyll - and often are.

3. Find a retailer you can trust. With the burgeoning Slow Food movement and a heightened interest for artisan food products, many wine shops and specialty food boutiques are enthusiastic advocates for EVOO. Many even hold
periodic olive oil tastings which are invaluable when it comes to determining your preferences and expanding your knowledge of great olio.

4. Do your homework. Mueller's book Extra Virginity is a fun and informative read and his website truthinoliveoil.com is an informative and up-to-date reference source. He even reviews bulk olive oil you might find in large grocery chains so you can make certain that your general purpose olive oil is genuine. Olive Oil Times can also be found online and offers a range of olive oil news and research.